What ever possessed you to start a dive operation in the
Maluku Islands of Indonesia?
I was approached by an old friend Buck Randolph last March
here in Bali. He’s been flying helicopters all over
the archipelago for the past decade or so and he’s a
very interesting guy. Buck invited me to work with him helping
to promote Maluku, or the Mollucan Islands in English, as
a great travel destination for divers and eco travelers. I’ve
been surfing for many years but am new to the diving world.
The Spice Islands is a remote area, yet there are daily flights
from Bali to Ambon. I visited Seram and Ambon ten years ago
on my first trip to Indonesia, before I ever came to Bali.
Maluku is a strange world with a fascinating history, but
I have come full circle regarding my relationship with Maluku.
The world needs to understand what a marvelous place this
is out there!
What's so special about Maluku? How is diving/touring on Maluku
different from Bali?
I have always been intensely curious about the cultures that
straddle the Wallace Line bordering the Banda Sea. The area
is made up of a rich ethnographic stew that has resulted from
the Spice Trade and the long term mix of Malay, Chinese, Arab,
Indian, and Papuan peoples. Many of the inhabitants have strong
Papuan characteristics yet they may follow distinctly Malay
cultural patterns. There are strong animistic undercurrents
out there as well. Between the people, the animals and the
botany, all of the above show a unique blending of mannerisms
that one rarely finds outside of the Maluku region. Divers
and birders also love Maluku because of its biodiversity that
is above and below the sea.
Is the character of the people different from the Balinese
character?
The Maluku Islanders are extremely loyal to anyone who treats
them with common decency and respect. The Dutch learned this
very quickly and put many Ambonese people into top positions
in the colonial government. The locals also possess a light,
very humorous side as well. The Ambonese are well known throughout
the world as some of the top musicians and vocalists in the
islands. They even have a conch shell orchestra out there!
The Balinese and Javanese are wonderful people, but the Maluku
culture feels much more pacific in the vibe out there. Some
of their daily habits such as eating, walking, socializing,
joking, etc. have a very different feel from the rest of Indonesia.
It’s very refreshing to see!
What do you like about working there? Dislike?
One of the most exciting things about setting up a new business
out there is that we are in real pioneer territory regarding
diving and eco travel. Divers experience incredible beauty
with NO crowds. Trekkers over on Seram Island follow local
guides that know the jungle inside and out. These guys are
actually ex-bird poachers that have gotten on board with us
as they see the long term benefits of what we are doing as
a better option than selling parrots to black market smugglers
for $2 a bird. Maluku has very little industry and with that
comes very little pollution. We are starting to employ many
families in several home based green technology businesses.
Our guests can walk down the beach and interact with the local
fishermen and farmers and not feel like they are simply an
ATM machine with legs. These are very sincere people that
work hard at subsistence fishing and farming for the most
part. I love their big toothless smiles!
With all the sectarian and religious violence, is it safe
for tourists to travel in Maluku now?
The origins of the Maluku conflict are still a mystery. It
was a domestic dispute. That’s all that I can say about
it at this point. The Spice trade has brought traders from
many different ethnicities over many centuries and they have
evolved to a high degree of tolerance for different cultures.
The conflict came on so suddenly, but there was never any
violence directed at tourists. NEVER. On the contrary, any
foreign traveler that has passed through the Malukus in the
past several decades generally has reported that the hospitality
they received from the locals was legendary. The reality though,
is that tourism never has really caught on out there. Adventurous
travelers see this fact as a good thing! The locals are curious
and love to laugh and joke with their fair skinned guests.
In 2005, travelers now see open arms and big smiles. And the
grilled tuna on the beach at sunset is pretty good, too.
Isn’t hard on your family with you traveling back and
forth?
I am fortunate to be based in Bali with my family as we continue
to promote our Unexplored Adventures company in the Malukus.
My wife Priska and our two young daughters, Emma and Aurelia
have plenty of family in Bali to be with on my frequent trips
out to Maluku. Generally, I meet guests upon arrival in Bali
and get them off on the next plane to Ambon. We are very fortunate
to have daily flight out to Ambon so the ease and convenience
of travel out there is not too taxing. I head out to Ambon
every couple of months to lead specialized trips and also
to conduct ongoing anthropological research in many different
locales. I feel very grateful to have the support of my family
in Bali. I feel extra indebted to the Maluku islanders themselves
that have gone the extra distance time and time again to make
sure that we funny looking folks from the Bule Tribe always
have an enjoyable time in their backyards. Selamat Jalan ke
Maluku!
To learn more about Mike Hillis’s specialty travel company,
contact his website: www.unexploredadventures.com.
For anyone interested in being considered for Siapa, please
contact : pakbill2003@yahoo.com
Copyright@2005 Al Hickey
You can read all past articles of Siapa
at www.BaliAdvertiser.biz
