Gunung Agung: Bali’s Mount Olympus

Flying into Bali, you can’t miss it. The shadowy outline of the giant blue-black mountain towering over the landscape on the eastern end of the island. You’re able to see the behemoth from the Kintimani area, the beach in Sanur and from Bali’s offshore islands. In fact, a glimpse of its majestic peak can be seen poking through the clouds from almost any part of the island.

The Balinese consider this sacred volcano “the Navel of the World,” the geographical and religious center of the universe, what Olympus was to the ancient Greeks – the Cosmic Mountain. The mystically inclined Balinese believe the gods raised the mountain as a vantage point to view the unceasing pageant of life below. Every Balinese must sleep with their heads toward Agung in an attitude of respect. With an elevation of 3,014 meters, the foot of the mountain stretches northeast to the sea. To the southeast its slope is blocked by a line of smaller extinct volcanoes; to the northwest Agung is separated from Mount Batur by a deep long valley.

During Mount Agung’s month-long eruption in 1963, massive lava streams devastated almost all of eastern Bali. Although the lava did not reach the far eastern district capital of Amlapura itself, hot ash ignited thatched roofs, volcanic debris rained upon the earth and accompanying whirlwinds and earthquakes destroyed buildings and toppled temples. The town was cut off for 3 years, isolating this formerly prosperous trading community from the rest of Bali. On Bali’s north coast, you can still see extensive landscape that has been ravaged by volcanic rubble from this eruption. In the end, 1,600 Balinese were killed and 86,000 left homeless. The cataclysmic eruption ultimately became a damning judgment on the entire Sukarno era.

Climbing Mount Agung

Conquering this central, heavenly point of reference is filled with its own unique set of challenges, not for the faint of heart. For many the experience is the highlight of their trip to Bali, totally worth the pain. Between July and October the fit and adventuresome attempt the ascent, often much more challenging than they expect.

Agung is in fact exhausting, difficult and can be downright dangerous. Definitely out of reach for kids. If there was a serious injury near the peak, no qualified first aiders are available. Many hikers feel there should be ropes or railings to keep climbers from falling. People have become lost, never to be found. Uphill all the way, the terrain is sandy and rocky and climbing up steeply in the dark requires fitness and perseverance. The trek is however entirely feasible, though be prepared for some technical sections. For about 10% of the climb, especially over volcanic rocks (and occasionally in the forest), you’ll need to use your hands.

You can either take the route from Besakih temple (1525 m)
to crater rim (2907 m), which is 4.2 km one way or the path to the real summit (3142 m), which is 5.8 km one way (for half the way, this path follows the same path to the crater rim). This 7-8 hour climb is the most popular to Agung’s usually cloudy peak. Another trail starts east of Besakih from Tukad Pangian/Pasar Agung (1200 m) to the real summit (3142 m), which is 9.7 km one way (4 hours). This is the steepest and most challenging with an average elevation gain of only 1 m high every 3 m. If you take the Besakih route up and then the Pasar Agung side down, you get to see the highest peak from different angles.

Climb at your own pace, slow and steady. At some point, you may join up with other groups of trekkers, but don’t try to compete with the people ahead. Don’t push yourself too hard. You’ll still need some energy to go the LONG way back down. Count on spending a total of 3.5 hours going up and about 3 hours to get back down. The beginning of the hike at Pura Besakih starts right off with 200 strenuous steps, as if the mountain is issuing a challenge “Climb me if you dare.”

After the steps, you’re faced with more upward climbing. The lower portions of the mountain are heavily forested, and farmed up to about 1,000 meters. This section can be humid, muddy and slippery. After climbing about 1.5 km past some houses, you come upon a meru temple at about 1,200 m. Eventually, the trails through vegetation make way to a short level expanse of ground before the rocky section.

About halfway up, it becomes more of a climb than a hike. The hardest part is the last hour. This is pure rock climbing, the last part at 45 degrees! You’re basically scrambling and walking over rubbly rock and debris. Nearer the top just before sunrise, the climb can be intimidating, especially given the limited visibility from only your headlamp and the light of the moon. Stars above and city lights magically winking far away in the distance.

The real challenge comes as climbers approach the granite summit with large rock formations and a few narrow ledges and an icy-cold and narrow summit ridge that really test your alertness and courage. Be present in the moment and choose your footing carefully to reach the highest peak, very scary if you look to your left or your right.

But viewed in the thin atmosphere from the crater rim of a volcano on an island at the break of dawn, the panorama is amazing! Whether in the bright sunshine or moonlight, a stream of clouds on the crest taper off in the wind. You can see Pura Besakih below, Mount Rinjani and the Gili islands on Lombok to the east and Bali’s north coast on the other side, while the whole island of Bali to the south. The sun will never look so welcoming.

Practicalities

Don’t underestimate the difficulty of this climb. Good preparation and an experienced guide are crucial. Be positive and husband your strength. Honor the volcano. The best preparation is to be experienced and accustomed to mountain hiking. You must be very fit. Work out or practice sports regularly 2-3 times per week leading up to the climb.

Agung should never be attempted alone. Since there are innumerable trails leading skyward, a guide is a necessity, particularly in the early part of the climb. Without a good guide, you could be stuck on the mountain for another 4-5 hours. The whole experience can also be greatly enhanced with a good guide.

The mountain is worth 4 stars, but the average guide service ranks only one star, which gives the climbing experience an overall ranking 3 stars. Your trip might be sold to you and planned initially to include camping on the summit, but bad weather always seems to be arriving later in the day (which may or may not be true), serving as an excuse for the camping trip to became a day trip. Individuals and groups are first picked up a their hotel in south Bali at the agreed upon time for the two-hour drive up to Pura Besakih or to Pasar Agung’s parking lot. Approaching, you’ll be able to see silhouettes of the massive mountain. Within an hour after arriving you’re on your way.

Guides perform a ceremony before you begin, sprinkle you with holy water and give offerings up to the volcano god. The better guides start helping climbers right from the beginning after just 15 minutes. Climbers would never be able to make it without the guide’s help. Particularly on the descent, the guide becomes as essential as your walking stick. A good guide motivates you to keep moving, stopping at opportune moments so you can take a photo or drink in the view. At the summit, they may even provide you with hot tea/coffee and banana pancakes.

Unfortunately, some guides barely talk despite knowing a little English and you being able to converse in a little Bahasa Indonesia. Even if they know the mountain well and have hiked it for years, they don’t do a good job of transmitting that knowledge to you. Others walk so far ahead that you are basically finding the path yourself. There are instances where you can’t even see his headlamp.

Climbers start the ascent at different times. Some prefer to begin as early as 8 pm and start up as early as 11 pm. Other groups begin climbing anywhere from midnight up until 3 am. If you want to reach to the summit for the sunrise and not have clouds obscuring the view from the top, you should start up from the foot of the mountain no later than 2 am. The cost depends on how many climbers make up your party and what services, if any, are provided. Prices, including guide fees, transport, breakfast, snacks and hot coffee at the summit, can range from US$80 to US$95 per person for a two-person group; as much as US$120-US$135 for three people.

It’s wise to be well equipped. Suit up with several layers of clothing that you can peel off as the day warms up. Because of sharp grass, wear long pants. Wear real hiking/trekking shoes or runners with nonslip soles, a must for the final steep scramble to the summit over loose scree. Cut your toenails. Take headlamps or flashlight, fold-up umbrella (a necessity), gloves, hiking pole, sufficient water, camera, chocolate, trail food, energy bars and snacks.

For people in average condition, climbing up is pretty straightforward, but many trekkers have the most difficulty on the grueling and slippery descent, which requires body balance and puts a lot of stress on your knees. The daunting way down can be obscured by fog with often no place on the rocks to place your feet.

Guide Services

Gungbawa Trekking
Jl. Tukad Pancoran IV/E No. 7, Denpasar
Website: http://gungbawatrekking.com
Email: info@gungbawatrekking.com
Mobile: 081-238-78168

Bali Trekking Tour
Jl. Raya Gentong, Ubud
Website: http://www.balitrekkingtour.com
Tel. 0361 8720 838 (Office Hours)
Mobile: 087-861-863-656
Email:? info@balitrekkingtour.com

Bali Rocky Trekking
Dukuh Kawan Pejeng,
Tampaksiring, Gianyar
Website: http://www.balirocky.com
Tel: 0361-857-1102/857-1103
Mobile: 082-146-489-955/081-797-66776
Email: info@balirocky.com.

Personally recommended are Pak Mudi, a spiritual trekker with 21 years experience climbing Agung; friendly and patient Wayan Agung (mobile: 085-237-008-513, email:agungguide@yahoo.com); Ketut mentioned favorably in Lonely Planet (though you may be guided by one of his assistants instead of him).

<pakbill2003@yahoo.com>
Copyright  2015 Bill Dalton
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